Itamaraca lies about 50km north of Recife. It is largely covered in tropical forest, has many beautiful beaches and some fascinating historical sites. Sadly, any visitor soon realises the island has seen better days. In recent years it has suffered illegal land invasion, environmental degradation, and the loss of much of its tourist industry largely due to the presence of 3 large penal institutions (scheduled for closure this year)
It may no longer be the chic place to holiday that it used to be, but it is still a very charming and beautiful place with much to offer, within easy reach of Recife. A number of ambitious projects are planned for the years ahead, to restore the fortunes of this very special place.
Transport
Itamaraca can be reached by road via the bridge crossing at the pretty fishing town of Itapissuma. Public buses leave the Terminal Integrado of Igarassu regularly from early morning to late at night for the island towns of Pilar and Jaguaribe, some taking a 15 minute diversion to Forte Orange on the way. The Igarassu Terminal is itself served by bus lines from many points in Recife. A ticket is valid on multiple buses through the Terminal Integral system for travel as far as the final terminal at Jaguaribe. The island can also be reached by VW Combi 'colectivos' operating out of Igarassu and Abreu e Lima, which can be hailed like taxis. On the island, an informal tremzinho, ('little train') plies between Jaguaribe, Pilar and Forte Orange at popular times such as weekends carnival and the holiday season.
Other settlements on the island include the historic village of Vila Velha, and the northern fringe communities of Praia de Sossego (Beach of Tranquility), Enseiada dos Golfinhos (Dolphins Cove – sadly, the dolphins are long gone), and the Pontal. They are served by a local bus which leaves the main shopping street of Igarassu daily at about 10.00, and also 15.00 on Mondays Fridays and Saturdays, travelling first to Vila Velha then the northern communities, terminating at Enseiada dos Golfinhos.
These communities can also be reached by bussing to the terminal at Jaguaribe and taking the 15-minute walk to the end of town and a jetty where from 06.00 to about 22.00, motorised canoes carry foot passengers across a beautiful 50 meter estuary to Praia de Sossego.
Forte Orange This quiet coastal community is clustered around a magnificent sixteenth-century Dutch fort which sits right on the beach and can be visited for a small entrance fee. Other attractions include the tiny palm-fringed island of Coroa do Aviao, which lies only a few hundred meters offshore and can be reached by launch for a fee, negotiable on the beach. Launches also take visitors to visit offshore natural pools, mangroves and Vila Velha, by arrangement. A couple of hundred meters back up the main road is the turnoff to the Peixe Boi research, conservation and visitor centre. Forte Orange is the islands' main tourist attraction, with some reasonable restaurants, several pousadas, and a four star hotel.
Vila Velha occupies a stunning location overlooking the ocean and the Coroa do Aviao, and is one of Brazil's oldest communities, albeit with almost no focus on tourism. Today to its handful of residents it is simply a quiet rural village, although visitors can usually find a local guide to help out. The best view across the ocean can be had from the terrace of the only decent restaurant in the village, the Telhadao, at the left of which is the start of the Trilho dos Holandaises, an historic trail which heads downhill 3km to the small church at Forte Orange. (NB The start of the trail at the Forte Orange end is not easy to find, so it is best attempted from Vila Velha). The charming sixteenth-century church at Vila Velha is one of the oldest in Brazil. Unlike many city churches its' doors are open and you can climb the bell tower for even better views of this unspoilt peaceful tropical location. The church occupies a corner of the large grassy square which forms the centre of the village. Behind the church is an ateliê which opens occasionally (weekends and holidays). Adjacent to the church is a pillory from the days of slavery. Just up the square from the church is a rough path that runs along the left side of the Municipal School and down a steep bluff through trees toward the Canal de Santa Cruz, the waterway that separates Itamaraca from the mainland. In a delightful sheltered spot at the water's edge is an historic lime kiln, (Forno de Cal) which has been adopted by a local couple who take care of it and have built a modest timber thatched home above it. They have put together a small collection of artefacts including some Dutch ceramics, and for a small donation will explain the history of the place and even introduce you to local Sangui, (a small monkey) which live in the surrounding trees. If you are lucky you may be able to catch a tourist launch from here back to Forte Orange.
Lagoa Azul (blue lake) is a slightly tacky leisure area in the forest near Vila Velha with pedal boats, a flying fox and a restaurant. Access is free, via signposted tracks from the road to Vila Velha and the island's main road, which also passes the Engenho de Sao Joao, featured in the writings of Gilberto Freyre
Pilar is the administrative centre of the island and has several council buildings including the Secretaria de Turismo, the police station, post office, library and hospital, a couple of banks, some shops and low-key eating places, ice-creameries, public toilets, a modest hotel, a small, pretty church, and a large square where very noisy events are held - particularly during carnival. Throughout the island sea erosion is becoming a problem, and this is most visible here where several buildings on the ocean side of the square have been abandoned.
Jaguaribe is where the decline of Itamaraca is most evident,where buses to the island terminate, and from where you can cross the estuary to Sossego and the more isolated (and hence unspoilt) beaches of the northernmost communities.
There are plans to refurbish the seafront here. The beach is good, particularly toward the headland, but the town itself has few amenities of a reasonable standard.
The four-kilometer strip of unspoilt beach known as Praia de Sossego, Enseiada dos Golfinhos, and the Pontal are primarily communities of mile after mile of holiday homes; although 1 km uphill from Sossego there is a small resident community with shops, a snack bar, a health post and several churches. Sossego and Golfinhos have a number of small pousadas near the beach. The Pontal is one of the finest spots of beach on the island, and has an upmarket baracca which opens most days for excellent seafood and cold drinks, as do a number of shacks along this long stretch of beach during the holiday season and at weekends. Barra de Catuama lies on the mainland just across from the Pontal, and can be reached by a canoe ferry service (which unfortunately is irregular but worth a try).
